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Astoria to
Eugene |
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My last
dinner in Astoria was take-out Chinese from just down the road
from the hotel. It sucked. But the fortune from my
fortune-cookie dessert made up for it somewhat- "Look
with favor upon a bold beginning."
I was
distracted from the butterflies as I rushed to get a reasonably
early start on my first day. I didn't quite make it.
It was 10:30AM by the time I was satisfied with the packing and
distribution of my load and I rolled out of the hotel parking
lot.
My first
quick stop was at the Maritime Museum, the official start of the
TransAmerica Trail, to grab a quick photo and reset my odometer
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Just
8 miles down the road, I came to the re-creation of Fort Clatsop,
Lewis and Clark's winter camp on the Pacific. Here, the
"Corps of Discovery" spent a wet winter of 1805-06,
preparing for their return journey.
The Fort
Clatsop National Memorial is preparing for a tourist onslaught
over the next two summers, as they celebrate the bicentennial
of Lewis and Clark's visit. But it was pretty quiet while
I was here. No jostling crowds, yet.
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US101,
the "Scenic Coastal Highway", is far from flat.
I came to my first climb shortly after reaching the coast, between
the resort towns of Seaside and Canon Beach.
Canon Beach
is famous for its offshore rock formations, called "Haystack
Rock", and "The Needles". I saw similar formations
along the entire stretch of this spectacular coast during my two
days here before turning inland. |
Just south of Canon Beach,
US101 ascends Neakahnie Mountain. It was a killer climb,
but the view made it worthwhile.
Late in the day, after 45 miles, I rolled into the small coastal
town of Manzanita, and fell in love with it. I could definitely
live here (if I ever make any money again, anyway). It was
quiet and non-commercial, probably what some of the East coast
resort towns were like 50 years ago.
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I set
up camp the first night at the "hiker/biker" section
of Nehalem Bay State Park, just beyond Manzanita. There,
I met two other groups of long-distance cyclists- Amy
and Nathan from Hawaii, who are cycling the Oregon Coast Route;
and Chris from Denver, who is also doing the Trans Am.
Amy,
a medical school student, cycled most of the coast solo last
year, and returned this year with Nathan. He'll ride the
first week with her, then she'll continue to Crescent City alone.
Amy has a Masters in Physiology, and her thesis involved genetics
of the Med-Fly. She was quite familiar with Chromosome
18 disorders, and we talked about Amanda. (Of course,
I talk about Amanda to everyone I meet.)
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The
next morning, I walked my bike over the dune (on a legitimate
path- don't freak out, my tree-hugger friends!) and took the traditional
"Pacific Dip" photo.
The tide
was rushing in, and I was using the ten-second timer on the camera
since no-one was around, so I had to hurry so the camera wasn't
swamped (not to mention the bike, and me!).
Self-portraits
with a timer can be tricky. I have to set up the camera,
push the shutter release, then run into position. Sometimes
it doesn't work as planned. (See photo below) |
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Wednesday's
climbs were even steeper than Tuesday's. The views from
the peaks are incredible! But, boy do I work for each one!
On the
East coast, only Maine has coastal mountains, and since the geological
formations are much older there, and erosion has had more time
to do it's sculpting, the scenery just isn't as spectacular.
(Not that it ain 't grand, mind you.)
Here,
every view knocks my socks off! |
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Wednesday evening, after another 50 miles, (and
over 2,000 vertical feet of climbing each day!) I limped into Cape
Lookout State Park, and set up camp in a large Hemlock wood.
The "hiker/biker" sections of both state parks I visited
were beautiful. Each night set me back four bucks! |
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Amy
and Nathan were already set up here when I arrived. Chris
came in about an hour after me. He had taken a wrong turn,
and climbed some extra hills before arriving from the wrong direction.
Chris is
a graphic artist from Denver. He's doing a modified Trans
Am / Northern Tier route in commando fashion. He has
a rough idea of the route, and is using a small atlas instead
of the Adventure Cycling maps. This hasn't worked well for
him. He copied the route directions to Eugene from my maps,
and will try to pick up the route maps when he gets to Adventure
Cycling headquarters in Missoula, Montana. |
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The
next morning (Thursday) started with out with a bitch of a climb.
I stopped at an overlook about halfway up to take some photos,
and met a British couple who were touring the West coast.
Their son just got an MBA from Wharton. (He already has
a PHD in nano-technology.) They were in Philadelphia for
his graduation just two days before I met them.
They gave
me some recommendations for cycle touring in England and Wales,
should I ever get there- and I will! |
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By the time
I reached Neskowin, just 28 miles (and 2500) vertical feet along,
I was shot and pulled into a resort motel/condo complex for the
night.
I got
a 1-bedroom unit for $85, not a bad deal compared to many hotels,
but astronomical compared to the campgrounds! The sunset
Thursday night was worth it, though! (Below)
The resort manager,
Armand Thibault, takes sunset pictures whenever possible, and
posts them
here.
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Neskowin was my last view of the Pacific Ocean.
My route turned inland the next day, climbed over the Coastal range,
and entered the Willamette Valley, a beautiful area with views of
the Coastal range to the west, and the Cascades to the east. |
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The
Willamette Valley (will-AM-ett) is also famous for it's Pinot
Noir wines. Of course, I had to stop at the first winery
I came across and sample their wares. Just a few sips, mind
you. I won't drink and ride!
The wines
were delicious! I sent half a case home. Hopefully,
some will be left when I get back. |
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After
56 miles and 2,500 more feet of climbing in 94 degree heat, I
reached the Polk County Fairgrounds in Rickreall (population 57).
Many small towns along the route offer camping in local parks.
The fairgrounds charged me $8, and I set up camp in the shade
of a large building, near a couple from Utica, NY, also doing
the Trans Am.
Frans
and Bonnie are raising money for their own cause, an "inter-generational"
trail at Oneida Health Care, where Frans is the Director of Physical
Therapy. They were both very pleasant and competent, and
Frans gave me some helpful tips for light traveling, and setting
up camp. |
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We talked about their cause, and I told them all about Amanda and the Hoelands. They are also planning to update a web site during their trip, but are not carrying a computer, and are having trouble uploading information from libraries and internet cafes. You can check out their site here.
Frans
and Bonnie rode with Chris from Denver for much of the day. Chris had forged ahead to look for me in the next town, leaving
the fairgrounds less than an hour before I arrived.
I got
behind Chris when I took a short day between Cape Lookout and
Neskowin, and haven't seen him since. I wish you safe travels
and fair weather my friend, wherever you are!
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Saturday,
I got my earliest start yet- 9:00am, after a healthy pancake breakfast
at a restaurant next to the fairgrounds.
I had
lunch at the Sunnyside Cafe in Corvallis, which offers free wireless
internet. I caught up on some e-mail, then did a little
exploring. Corvallis is the home of Oregon State University.
It may be the most bicycle-friendly city I've ever seen, with
on or off-road bike paths on almost every street.
Later
that evening, I pulled into Eugene Camping world just outside
of Eugene, where a nicely shaded and screened hiker/biker site
set me back $6. Mileage for the day- 67.
Sunday
I explored Eugene, the home of Bike Friday, the maker of my bike.
I planned to be there when they opened Monday morning. |
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